Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Makeni

We travelled to Makeni today and visited 3 hospitals- the old government hospital, the Holy Cross private hospital and the new government hospital. THe old hospital is very run down, has one doctor, an xray machhine that doesn't work because the battery is dead, and 4 nurses, 2 midwives. The doctor is an orthopedic surgeon who does everything gyne, ob, peds you name it. Holy Cross is in much better shape with a functioning xray machine, a lab, and 2 OR suites. They have a special separate OR suite for microsurgery on hands. It operates 2-3 months a year by Italian team. They come and repair war injuries. When we visited the new government hospital we doscovered a gem of a prothetics clinic that was so awe inspiring, the work they do changes peoples lives in the rural areas, they travel around fitting prosthetics, and even have a boy in a village with an Ilazarov bone lengthening device. That is high tech medicine in a low tech setting.

We walked around the village after looking for the tree that leaks poyo- palm wine. We couldn't find it but did get to play some soccer with the Gr 8 boys, they loved seeing me try to keep up to them. We all had a good laugh.

I cried today too. There are a few families living very marginally in this community. As I was snapping pictures it occured to me that if I return next year one of them may not be here. You see the reddish hair and big bellies that indicate a lack of protein in the diet and know how close they are to dying from malnutrition. The young kids often come in the evening and we sing songs together Old McDonald, etc, they love it when we song and we love it when they sing. It is a fun hour or so. I also have been playing cards with number and letter cards so we sing the alphabet song and do math sums. Fun fun.

Love to all gonna go now. Likely going out of town for the weekend to Outambe NAtional PArk it will be interesting. Oh and saw a giant spider last night in Clare's room. None in my room and still no snakes.

Cheers Jane

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Last couple of days

So since I last wrote we have been sticking closer to Mapaki. We met with Thomas yesterday in Mayagbu and I was struck again by how destitute this community is. The thin legs, the rundown homes, there is a lassitute in this community that others don't have. I was approached by a woman asking me to help her daughter who is sick. The child was seen at the hospital by a nurse because she didn't have enough money to see the doctor. No tests were done and she was prescribed medicine for malaria.
As we chatted Thomas found out her husband was a teacher and asked for him to come to meet with Thomas in the morning. The child did not look well, very pale and thin.

So what is the problem? Well health care is supposed to be free for children under 5 years of age. Malaria is a targeted disease and testing and treatment of it should be free. But none of it was free for her. THe doctor refused to see her because she couldn't pay enough. The nurse saw her but did no tests. She had to pay for medicine that she couldn't afford becuase the medical people often have their own pharmacies that they run on the side to make money. In addition to which she had to walk 2 hours to get to the hospital in Makeni in the first place.

Our meeting with Thomas went well, Vaughn was able to help with some roofing issues they were having for the cdpeace Administrative Centre they are building. We discussed further directions for health care and I have some items ot follow up on when I return. Thomas would like to open a pharmacy in the cdpeace centre at Mayagbu and get a motorcycle to serve as a mobile delivery system to gets meds to the villages on a rotating basis. Something like this was up and running in the 80s but the infrastructure was destroyed by the war and the governement is slow to help in the rural areas. So now nurse often run out of medication and have ot take a day to travel to Makeni to purchase them with their own money which then leads them to charge patients for meds so they can recoup the cost of travel and meds.

Walking home from soccer yesterday, I was chatting with Canal, a 35 ish year old man. He showed me his wrist which he broke in a bike accident 2 weeks ago. No splint, no bandage, it was obviously swollen although not displaced. I was explaining how long it would take to heal and how resting it for a few weeks would help it heal faster. He was so surprised to hear that and I wondered that there was no first aid training for the community, the link to the nursing centre seems broken in all of these villages and the nurse provide prenatal care, immunizations and child care but other than that people rarely seek help there. Imagine how quiet our emerg would be here!

We visited the chiefs farm today. He has 150 acres that he has cleared andis farming at the border with another chiefdom, just ot establish the line firmly. He is hoping to use a combine this year to harvest the crop instead of hiring workers which he has done in the past. The system of land ownership here is very informal. It passes through the family, there are no fences, or stakes ot mark it out and if you want to make your farm bigger, go to the forest and start clearing- there it is. They grow 2 types of rice lowland in the swampy areas and upland in the higher ground. Chief said the combine for lowland rice runs on treads so it doesn't get stuck. They also practice mixed farming with many things jumbled together- benemix, maize,sorghum, and rice are often thrown together into the soil. In their gardens they grow okra, potatoes, cassava, sweet potatoes, yams, beans, pears, bananas. So much more to share but I should go.
Love to all, talk to you later.

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Masabong-Pil

Today, sunday was a most interesting day. We travelled to Masabong-Pil, a community southwest of Mapaki to meet with a traditional healer. It was one of the first times people in the village had seen Aporto white people and the children didn't even run after calling that out to us. THey were very shy and uncertain about us until the end of the visit when they started pointing to their teeth and then to our skin to tell us we were white.

The healer, Pa Mali, showed us around his hospital and clinic areas. He has planted gardens for the herbs and roots he needs to do his work. We looked at some of his medicines and tried a few too. Then he took us through some of the ceremonial areas including sweat lodges to make you bullet proof, a witch doctor gun that can kill without bullets. As crazy as it all sounds there in Canada, it is widely followed here and in fact, the village was unharmed during the civil war. The soldiers tried to shoot bullets there ut their guns did not work. People who had been treated with special creams could not be cut by even the sharpest machete. It was simply fascinating.

All the while we could hear the women singing and clapping just beyond the fence of the clinic. When we stepped outside it- it is woven grass fences, no ceiling for the buildings- there they were and they danced and sang as we walked back up the path to the nursing clinic. As it turns out Pa Mali is also the chair for the medical clinic and so I presented the box of supplies, medicine and a book to the nurse through Pa Mali. He and the nurse work together so sometimes he uses western medicine in addition to his herbs to heal patients.

After the visits we sat and ate lunch with the community. Try eating with 80 people staring at you. I was a little intimidated but knew it would be rude to refuse so we started to eat our individual plates of food and then big platters were brought out for the community members to share. Pa Mali was served last and he shared his plate with a group of young men who I took to be his sons. He has 3 wives, one of whom we met. She lives in Texas parttime but happened to be in Masabong.

The road to Masabong was crazy. When Carolyn had told me the roads weren't good I thought oh I grew up in the country, I know dirt roads. I didn't know sierra Leonean roads. These are cleared tracks with ruts that are 1-2 feet deep, rocks that can not be moved in the middle of the road, flooded after rains, over bridges that are 8-12 inches higher than the road because of runoff. I will try to get a picture or 2 of them before I leave but not sure it will do it justuce. Suffice to say a 50 km trip can take a couple of hours because of road conditions. I have no idea how a vehicle survives there. And yet Pa Mali had a beautiful new Nissan SUV parked behind his house. A sure sign of wealth. He is one of the most highly sought after healers in the country.

It was a most interesting day. Tomorrow we are going to Mayagba to meet with Thomas and go over the plans for the cdpeace centre there. He wants to pick Vaughns brain about some building practicalities. We will see the cdpeace guesthouse there and finalize our plans for the next couple of weeks. I have realized we need help to travel within the country. Travel here is difficult and few vehicles can handle the roads- again I had read thois but until I experienced it didn't quite believe it was as bad as I read. So we are looking at continuing our collaboration with cdpeace, help Thomas reconnect with the communities as he returns to Sierra Leone and inturn he will helpp us with our travel arrangements.

So it looks something like this- Wednesday or Thursday we will go to Bumbuna Dam with MKK who used to work security there and now works for cdpeace. Friday to Sunday we will travel north ot Outambe Park with Clare and her husband Chris who arrives tonight. We will return to Mapaki and then our last week we will go south to Bo- both the chief and Thomas say that is a good city to visit. From Bo we will go to Tiwai Island for a night or two, return to Mapaki to pick up our stuff then head to Freetown for the 4 pm ferry to Lungi on Nov 6 to catch our flight.

We don't want to spend any more time than we have to in Freetown. It is a crazy place with noise, traffic, people calling out for money and help. The rural area is much more to our speed and tolerance. I have never travelled in India but I imagine it would resemble Freetown in 2009. Many of the former soldiers from the conflict are there because they cannot return to their villages without being harmed and that didn't surprise me on hearing it- there is just an edge that I am not comfortable with.

Saturday night in Mapaki was a football game between the young men and the older young men. This was followed by going to listen to the church choir practice. They have drums and use a bent metal stake as a triangle. It was beautiful music to listen to.

when we travel we are struck by how little stuff there is here. Kids in the village might have one soccer ball as a toy; they wander around the streets looking for something to do. This morning I did some math practice with the little ones and they loved having an activity. Older boys loiter on the porches, talking. No books to read, no cards to play with, no musical instruments, no string; children were playing with a plastic bag this morning and I looked at Nancy and said back home we wouldn't let them but here it is their only toy, no dolls, no balls, It seems that that whole idea of play is missing here, I guess as a result of the war, children are not in the habit of playing and parents don't know how to either. In fact when I divided up some medical supplies, the plastic bags and elastics were coveted items even. What do they need? Everything. There are some people who are better off but nobody has plenty to excess. There are a few radios in the village. A man came and sat and watched me knit yesterday and then he asked if he could learn. Michael is a teacher in the primary school and he sat for half an hour learning how to knit, fascinated by it.

So that is the news for now, so much more to share but next time. This is a long enough post. By the way haven't seen a snake anywhere yet, not a one- a few lizards, lots of birds but a paucity of other wildlife here, it was all eaten during the war.

Love to all, Jane

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Arriving in Mapaki

We landed at Lungi airport last night 10 pm, pitch black no street lights and were glad that TMT had his cousin Harold meet us and MKK from cdpeace to drive us to the guesthouse. We were up at 615 to catch the ferry to Freetown at 8 am and had our first poyo calling which means white person as we drove to the ferry terminal. We had breakfast in Freetown with Clare and then did some errands- grocery shopping, meeting officials with cdpeace, visiting th evillage of Mayugba to pay our respects to the village and then on to Makeni to visit before arriving in Mapaki aorund 630. Dinner was fish stew on rice with cucumber slices, fried plantain, and oranges. It was wonderful to sit and eat and know we are home for a week. My cellphone doesn't have any service here so I will rely on email communication while here.

After supper we heard drumming and went out to enjoy a traditional welcome from the Paramount chief, and elders, the teacher and the oldest auntie. Then there was drumming and singing and dancing by the women. The women laughed when I joined in and then they got Nancy and Clare up dancing too. This went on for an hour or so. THey asked the cheif for permission to dance all night, it was granted. They have stopped though and gone to put the children to bed.

The children love to wave and call out to us. We are learning to say sele- hello, moo moo thank you, and tanke karoo thanks be to God when we are greeted.I am going to go through all the supplies tomorrow with TMT to divide them between Paki Masabong chiefdom and Gbonkolincoln chiefdom evenly. So that will be tomorrow. It is very dark here with no street lights, no traffic and a crescent moon. So bedtime is early and we will be up early around 630 when the sun comes up.

Good night everyone.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Travel Arrangements

I leave in 2 days- 2 days, WOW. It has been a week of Wows though. Here is the tally:

80-100 lbs of First Aid supplies
16 lbs of antibiotics
20 lbs of medical books
25 pairs of medical scissors
4 pairs of glasses

I look at it all strewn across my bedroom (so the dog doesn't eat any of it) and
a) wonder how it is going to be packed
b) am amazed at what I accomplished in 10 months

Gotta admit I am feeling pretty good right now- proud, excited, fortunate to be in a position to do this trip.

I picked up the 80-100 lbs of first aid supplies from Parkview Public School yesterday- 3 Blue Boxes worth, carefully packed- stuffed full of, well, stuff! Tomorrow and Monday I need to go through and decide what can come out of its packaging to make it lighter, smaller, compressible. I also picked up 16 lbs of antibiotics from Novopharm. The meds I am not going to repack as I don't want to tamper with the bottles in case that affects their shelf life.

I am cleaning my house today and tomorrow so when I return it will be all ready for me. I don't know: is that a female thing or would men do that too? I also mowed the lawn yesterday nice and short so it can go to sleep for the winter. Making lists of what not to forget when I am packing- chargers for camera and cellphone batteries, email and cellphone contacts, nail clippers ( I always forget those and need them midtrip), swiss army knife (remember to pack it in my suitcase, not carry on), pay bills that need paying, it is a busy weekend- of course there are 4 hockey and 2 football events in there too. Somehow what needs to be done will get done, and the rest will no doubt wait for my return. The kids will have to make to with some hastily prepared meals and takeout for the weekend I am afraid.

Anybody out there confirm whether you can take bamboo kniting needles on a plane? I want to knit my way there and back to pass the time, might get a couple of pairs of socks done in that 24 hour period there and back? Of course the dog ate my last needles so would need to add that to the To Do List- get set of double pointed size 3 needles.

I heard from Clare and Thomas in Sierra Leone. Our arrival and first week is organized. We are being picked up at the airport through cdpeace. They have a truck which will hold all our luggage, thank goodness. Thomas has a cousin working at the airport who will greet us and escort us through immigration. We are staying in a guesthouse overnight and will then brave the ferry to Freetown in the morning and be on our way to Mapaki. Cian was jealous that I won't need a coat for the next 3 weeks but reminded me how cold I will be when I return.

As a reminder I will potentially have email access on my jane.gloor@sympatico.ca address off and on until Oct 28th so feel free to email me. I will be carrying a cellphone and be able to receive text messages for free. Gary has the contact info for that if you need to reach me. Once we know our travel plans beyond the 28th I will email the information. I may be out of contact from October 28th until I return to Freetown on the 4th or 5th of November. Don't worry, I will be safe and I feel that I have done all I can to ensure that through my preparations in the past few months. I look forward to returning with many stories and pictures to share.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

First Aid supplies and other stuff

I am amazed at the offers of first aid supplies. A family has a large stash of supplies left over from home care and they are donating it. Another family has donated money for me to purchase supplies. Others are bringing things in to the school. I am humbled by all the support. I will likely need to take a separate suitcase for the supplies and,if so, that expense has been covered by a donation. I feel so fortunate to be in a position to make this trip. At times I have wondered if I was running away from my life for a bit, but right now it feels like I am where I am supposed to be at this moment. That is how I want to feel going into this: doing the right thing, at the right time, with the right people.

I heard from Clare Levin in Sierra Leone (a Canadian working with CIDA and Peaceful Schools) about the plans to pick us up at the airport. The chief is making arrangements for our pickup. He offered us accommodation with relatives the first night we arrive but it is late and we have elected to stay at the Gateway Guesthouse. We will get to take the ferry across to Freetown the next morning as the road to Mapaki is much better from Freetown than Lungi where the airport is. That will be quite an adventure in itself from what I can gather. Tempted to pack my own life jacket just in case but will resist the urge- that is my 'Scaredy Squirrel' Be prepared for any possible complication speaking.

Clare is going to speak to Thomas to ensure that duplicate arrangements aren't made for our arrival and travel by cdpeace and the chief. Between them, they have the only 4 wheel drive vehicles in the region and it would be a shame to have both of them sent for us. The itinerary for our first week of travel with cdpeace has been sent to Thomas. He arrived in Sierra Leone early this week and I look forward to hearing from him either directly or via Clare after she meets with him next week.

Sierra Leone just got a major hydroelectric dam- Bumbuna- up and running after 30 years of starts and stops- electricity is coming to Freetown at least. And another exciting bit of news: oil was just discovered off the coast of Sierra Leone. Big announcement in the international news although not every one is sure that it will necessarily be a good thing for the country. Depends how much of the development occurs with local input vs foreign exploitation of the resource. So many positives, so much potential and so many challenges ahead of them to get there.

I have included an address that links to Mapaki, Sierra Leone in the news. Amnesty International was there the end of September promoting womens health and reduction of deaths during childbirth. As many of you may know, 1 in 8 women die in childbirth in Sierra Leone currently. It has one of the highest child mortality rates in the world as well.

livewire.amnesty.org/2009/09/28/joining-in-the-dancing-in-mapaki-in-sierra-leone/

Thursday, October 1, 2009

2 weeks

It is now 2 weeks until we leave. My friend is recovering and will be able to travel, and I am getting very excited.

I have been thinking about how many people have helped me to get this trip together: you have listened to me, encouraged me, challenged me and supported me. Some of the people I need to thank include a teacher from Parkview who put me in touch with Carolyn Vangurp in Sierra Leone, friends who are watching the menagerie while I am away, a friend who made a donation that will hopefully pay for medicine to take over and leave in Sierra Leone. As much as I am the one taking the journey, it has been a group effort and I couldn't have done it without you.

Other exciting news: I had ordered community health books back in February through Hesperian Books for Sierra Leone. After speaking to Carolyn I had them shipped directly to her through cdpeace in Mapaki. I was notified last week that the books had arrived 7 months after being shipped. It seemed remarkable that they made it after all this time and so I will make a presentation of them to the community when I arrive.

The picture is from a hike I took at Beaver Valley last weekend, Hogg's Falls trail. The colours were just beginning to change.

2 weeks